California’s Pebble Beach Golf Links is perhaps America’s most revered golf course, and these 18 holes have hosted the U.S. Open Championship six times—yet, remarkably, none of the 77 U.S. Women’s Opens has been played along Carmel Bay. That changes this month (July 5–9), when the LPGA’s best tee off at Pebble. Whether you’re coming to town for the historic tournament or feel inspired to visit after watching on TV, here’s a guide to beautiful Carmel-by-the-Sea.
17-Mile Drive and Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance
We wouldn’t recommend trying to tackle the 17-Mile Drive during the Open, but once the crowds have dispersed, a ride here is a must. One of the world’s most beautiful stretches of road winds along the coast and through Pebble Beach’s golf courses, passing groves of towering Monterey cypresses (as well as the much-photographed Lone Cypress), harbor seal and sea otter habitats, beaches, and roiling Pacific waves. The only way to make this route look better is to populate it with classic cars—which is just what happens next month, at the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance. The 72nd edition of the event, the capstone of Pebble Beach Automotive Week, takes place on August 20, drawing historic vehicles—Lincolns and Jaguars and Benzes, oh my!—from around the world.
Chez Noir and Foray
Carmel-by-the-Sea hasn’t exactly lacked for fine-dining options, but two new places have taken the local culinary scene up a notch. At Chez Noir, the husband-and-wife team of Jonny and Monique Black bring their experience at restaurants including Per Se, Atelier Crenn, and Quince to bear on the Central Coast’s bounty; dishes rotate based on seasonality, but among the highlights are Monterey Bay abalone skewers, grilled oysters with trout roe, spring lamb tartare, and grilled squab à l’orange. Just steps up 5th Avenue, another husband-and-wife duo, Michael Chang and Caroline Singer (with the help of their truffle dog, Falco), recently debuted Foray, where they’re serving delights such as Castroville artichoke heart confit, Monterey Bay Dungeness crab raviolo, and house-aged American Wagyu striploin.
Villa Mara Carmel
It would be tough to find a better hotel location than the one occupied by Villa Mara Carmel. The 16-room, adults-only property, which opened last year, is just a block from Carmel Beach, with views across the water toward Pebble Beach, yet it’s tucked into the tranquil residential neighborhood of Carmel Point. Not coincidentally, you’ll feel as if you’re staying at a classic California home, with plenty of casual space outside and upscale features inside (heated bathroom floors, more than 50 pieces from San Francisco’s Lost Art Salon gallery).
From $495, villamaracarmel.com
