ILLUSTRATION BY FRANCESCO ZORZI
Due to soaring city center rents, Lisboetas are heading north, to this mid-century residential project, which was built at the behest of dictator António de Oliveira Salazar. While the once quiet neighborhood’s decades-old ice cream parlors and produce markets have been joined by edgy galleries and an indoor wave pool, the area retains a for-locals-by-locals charm. Here, six residents show us the best of the north.
1. Stet
“Stet is a dynamic platform for photography and art books, but it is much more than that. The owner, Filipa Valladares, stocks limited editions that are difficult to find, and she also organizes fun events like book launches and engaging presentations.”
2. Appleton
“Appleton opened about 10 years ago as the first arts center in the neighborhood. I love that it promotes experimentation as well as a diverse range of artistic expressions. You can see a dance performance, a concert, a theater show, and much more.”
3. Maria Granel
“Thanks to the rich inventory of fragrant spices, cereals, tea, coffee, and chocolate, the aroma inside Maria Granel, an old-school, eco-friendly grocery store, is absolutely stunning. They host macrobiotic cooking classes too.”
4. The Wave Factory
“One of our newest neighbors, The Wave Factory, has it all: a café; a coworking space; a nice outdoor terrace for a healthy snack or gelato from our favorite, Nannarella; and the most surprising thing of all, a wave pool for aspiring surfers!”
5. Isco
“As a French guy, I think it’s important to have good croissants and pain au chocolat. But they were hard to find in Portugal until Isco, which is near my place. Not only are the French pastries great, but Paulo bakes the best bread in town.”
6. A Banco 31
“Carla Paoliello’s unpretentious street kiosk A Banca 31 is a hidden gem: an eclectic mix of cult publications about food, fashion, culture, arts, and literature. If you like our magazines at Isco, it’s because Carla curated them all.”
